Sam Sifton, who’s not exactly known for knocking culinary demigods off their pedestals, has finally gone and taken one of the city’s hallowed institutions down a peg. In a review of Masa that just went online, he strips the restaurant’s fourth star owing to what he describes as “wrinkles in Masa’s fine silk”: They asked him to kindly wait outside when he showed up early (that’s three paragraphs of the review), some of the dishes aren’t explained when they’re served, and the staff doesn’t pay you much attention after dessert. (Someone’s getting fired!) Though he concedes that Masa is “the city’s greatest sushi restaurant,” he thinks the restaurant, with its $450 menu, violates the contemporary dining rule that “culture at its highest must never feel transactional, whatever its cost.” And then there were six: Del Posto, Jean Georges, Daniel, Eleven Madison Park, Le Bernardin, and Per Se are the current crop of Times four-stars. Bruni gave Masa four in 2004, the same year he downgraded Bouley from four to three. The next year, Alain Ducasse at the Essex House was also reduced to three.

Masa [NYT]

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Varick Street just lost Village Lobster and Crabhouse in the “cursed space” that most recently held Steak Frites and Lucy Browne’s, but across the street at 64 Downing (the long-vacant space that held Junno’s till it closed back in 2006) the owners of a shuttered Park Slope restaurant, Maria’s Mexican Bistro, are making a comeback.

Photo: Alice Urmey

Eduardo Nacipucha tells us that his wife Maria and their partner Carlos Elias have retained their chef from Maria’s, Alfredo Luna, and together they’re opening La Camelia. You’ll find some old favorites from their previous joint: The table-side guacamole; the duck breast with black mole; the Angus steak, grilled chicken, and filet mignon on lava rocks; and of course the many tequilas (over 200 here). But there’ll also be a wider array of ceviches, plus new dishes like a lamb shank in red-wine reduction with Mexican spice. La Camelia will open for dinner service on Thursday, and within a week hours will expand from noon till midnight, with brunch starting at 10 a.m. on the weekends. We’ll have the menu for you in the next day or so.

La Camelia, 64 Downing St., nr. Varick St.; 212-675-7060

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You may have heard that Alex Julian will be doorman at the Dream Downtown’s soon-to-open pool and lobby bars, and you may have heard that acclaimed neurologist-chef Miguel Sánchez is opening a $245-a-meal restaurant in the hotel. Here’s something you haven’t heard: We’re told there will also be a restaurant off of the lobby called Marble Lane, and it’ll be headed by Top Chef alum Manuel Treviño, who will also create menus for the pool lounge, the rooftop bar, and 24-hour room service. Treviño has already left his position at another TAO/Strategic operation, Lavo (the new chef there is Lavo’s Vegas chef, John Deloach), and tells us that his “steak joint and bar” will open early next month.

Marble Bar will be separated from the lobby by a wall and sunken three feet into the ground; it’ll feature marblelike handblown light fixtures, black-leather banquettes, and white-marble tables, with a couch-dotted lounge in the back for bottle service. The menu hasn’t yet been finalized, but Treviño says it’ll be 30 percent steaks ranging from a $30 cut to a $95 porterhouse for two. The meat will be 28-day dry aged; there’ll be a selection of American Kobe; and each steak will have its own twist. True to Treviño’s Mexican roots, the strip steak, for instance, will be done carne asada style, with roasted poblanos and roasted corn pico. That won’t be the only exotic touch on the menu: There’s also a ponzu Kobe hangar steak with shishito peppers and shiitake mushrooms.

“We were originally thinking to go with an American concept,” says Treviño, “and then we had so many different thoughts that we decided to accept them all — French, Italian, Asian, American.” That’s why on the pool lounge’s menu of “hip spa cuisine,” there’ll be a double Kobe patty melt with wild mushrooms and wild onions. Meanwhile, Marble Lane’s menu will also feature fish and chicken dishes (entrees will range from $21 to $28), salads, a raw bar, a weekly pasta, and $10 to $22 appetizers like calamari à la plancha and 24-hour pork ribs.

Marble Lane will open for breakfast and dinner during the first or second week of July, with lunch to follow.

Marble Lane, Dream Downtown, 355 W. 16th St., nr. Ninth Ave.

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The Essex Street Market.

It was four years ago that we first told you the Tenement Museum was planning to re-create the saloon that Bavarian immigrant John Schneider ran from 1864 to 1886 at 97 Orchard Street. Gothamist now sits down with museum vice-president of education, Annie Polland, who says that the Shop Life exhibit will finally open in the fall. It’s uncertain whether there will be beer and food samples as originally planned, but starting June 24, the museum is conducting Lower East Side food tours that will stop at Loreley, Economy Candy, Essex Street Market, and Pickle Guys. Just be careful with those pickles: According to Polland, old-time nutritionists “actually said pickles made people excitable, and the Jews are already so excitable that they shouldn’t eat anymore pickles.”

Tenement Museum’s Annie Polland Talks History And Pickles [Gothamist]

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Poached diver scallops, lemon-fennel puree, dill.

A rep for Nick Curtin tells us the former Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar sous is resigning as executive chef at Tribeca tasting-menu newcomer Compose, effective at the end of the month. Reviews for the restaurant, which opened a handful of months ago, were mixed: Julia Moskin of the Times wrote that the 23-year-old Curtin’s cooking belonged “in the haute-foam family, but with the attention to balance that reflects his time in the empire of Jean-Georges Vongerichten.” Jay Cheshes of Time Out found the food “too precious, derivative and short on thrills to merit its exorbitant price tag.” Curtin says in a statement, “I’m looking forward to pursuing other culinary endeavors where I can continue to push the boundaries of cuisine, and explore new combinations of taste, texture, and presentation.”

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The Fort Greene Park Conservancy tells us it’s looking for food vendors to replace last year’s crop (Asiadog, HNH BBQ, and Steve’s Ice Cream) at its summer concerts (Antibalas on July 12 and Charles Bradley on July 26), as well as at a new Thursday night jazz and spoken word series. Director of programming Amanda Atlas tells us she’s thinking coffee and ice cream for the jazz night, and something along the lines of pizza and hot dogs for the main stage. She’s looking for something “fairly sophisticated or unusual,” but that doesn’t mean she’ll be jumping on the summer’s big trend: “I think a $14 lobster roll is not going to be looked at very well by people from our community — it would just be too hoity-toity for them.” Take a look at the RFP below; the deadline is June 23.

Fort Greene Park Conservancy, Inc.
Request for Proposal
Food Vendor Operations for June and July 2011
Greene Music on the Main Stage and GreeneLeaf Jazz and The Spoken Word

Fort Greene Park Conservancy, Inc. (The Conservancy) is seeking proposals to provide and operate food services for the Greene Music on the Main Stage (Myrtle Lawn) and GreeneLeaf Jazz and The Spoken Word (The Grove) outdoor venues at Fort Greene Park, located in Fort Greene between Dekalb Avenue/Myrtle Avenue and Ashland/Washington Park, in Brooklyn, NY. Please note proposals are due June 23, 2011 by 5pm.

Background
Fort Greene Park is a historic, architectural and horticultural gem that serves as a core organization for Fort Greene, Clinton Hill, Boerum Hill, Downtown Brooklyn and Bedford-Stuyvesant. With its close proximity to the Brooklyn Academy of Music, the Brooklyn Flea and Pratt Institute, Fort Greene is a culturally significant area for food and the arts. The Conservancy provides free (with a $2 suggested donation), high-quality programming in the park to this multicultural audience.

Greene Music on the Main Stage series was first introduced in 2010. Each show had attendance of 2,500-3,000. We anticipate 3,000-4,000 at this year’s shows. GreeneLeaf Jazz and The Spoken Word, a new series in the Conservancy’s programming initiative will leverage the deep history of Fort Greene/Clinton Hill as a stomping ground for renowned musicians and writers to offer a unique outdoor, cultural experience. We anticipate each performance to attract 400-500 attendees.

For more information about Fort Greene Park Conservancy, please visit:
http://www.fortgreenepark.org

PROPOSALS DUE ON OR BEFORE JUNE 23, 2011
Fort Greene Park Conservancy contact: Jessica Kepler (assisted by Kehinde Ellis)
Jessica Kepler Cloutier, Development & Membership, Email. jessica@fortgreenepark.org AND Kehinde.ellis@gmail.com

1. PROJECT DESCRIPTION
The Conservancy is seeking unique proposals for food operators for Fort Greene Park Conservancy’s Greene Music on the Main Stage and GreeneLeaf Jazz & The Spoken Word. The operators will make a significant contribution to the overall ambiance of the evening while providing a convenient service to attendees.

We are looking for 1 food vendor for the GreeneLeaf Jazz & The Spoken Word series, and 2-3 food vendors for the Greene Music on the Main Stage series.

Commitment is necessary per series.

Greene Music on the Main Stage
Series length: 2 shows
Attendance Anticipated: 3,000-4,000 per show
Dates: Tuesday, July 12; Tuesday July 26
Time: 6.00-9pm

GreeneLeaf Jazz & The Spoken Word
Series length: 6 shows
Attendance Anticipated: 400-500 per show
Dates: Thursdays June 30- August 10
Time: 6-8pm

2. PROPOSAL INSTRUCTIONS
Please submit completed proposals to jessica@fortgreenepark.org AND Kehinde.ellis@gmail.com
Subject: RFP Fort Greene Park Conservancy Food Vendor
Proposals are due on or before June 23, 2011 at 5pm.

Please include a cover sheet with RFP title, proposer’s name and signature and the following:
a. Operating Experience & Qualifications
Proposers should submit:
i. A description of the proposer’s business
ii. A detailed description of the proposer’s professional qualifications, demonstrating experience and record of safety in the industry, including any work with City Agencies, or access to individuals and/or firms with such expertise.
iii. A description of the proposer’s relative experience in operating a similar business enterprise
b. Operations Plan
Proposers should submit a detailed operational plan for the Site:
i. The proposed menu should be submitted, including menu items and prices
ii. The proposal should describe the operator’s plan for number and type of staff
iii. The proposal should describe the operator’s equipment plan.
iv. The proposal should describe the operator’s plan to meet all applicable health and food safety regulations.

3.REVIEW OF PROPOSAL RESPONSES
Final notification of the outcome of the review process is expected to occur on a rolling basis, beginning on June 24, 2011 at noon.

2011 Fort Greene Park Conservancy Performance Schedule
Greene Music on the Main Stage
Tuesday, July 12, 6pm-9pm, Fort Greene Park, Myrtle Lawn
Antibalas with The Stepkids and DJ Frank Gossner (VOODOO FUNK)
Tuesday, July 26, 6pm to 9pm, Fort Greene Park, Myrtle Lawn
Charles Bradley & The Menhan Street Band with Beans And DJ Todd-O-Phonic Todd

GreeneLeaf Jazz & The Spoken Word
Thursdays, Fort Greene Park, The Grove, 6-8pm
June 30- Jane Lecroy is Transmitting & Poet Laureate of Brooklyn Tina Chang
July 7- Ben Perowsky, MSO & Poet/Rapper TK Wonder
July 14- Michael Blake Trio & Writer/Poet Bushra Rehman
July 21- The Charlie Burnham Trio & Writer/Poet Tara Betts
July 28- David Fiuczynski Group
August 4- Ben Perowsky Moodswing & Performer/Poet Velez Moore

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Filed Under: the great outdoors, asiadog, fort greene park, hnh, steve’s, summer concerts

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The Food Network New York City Wine & Food Festival returns this year from September 29 through October 2, and tickets for this year’s fête go on sale on Monday, June 20. The big news: This year Whoopi Goldberg will host the Burger Bash in lieu of Rachael Ray, who we’re told will be out of the country for over a year for “personal” reasons. Oh well. Events like Meatball Madness (hosted by Giada this year), Chelsea Market After Dark (hosted by Emeril), and Morimoto’s sushi karaoke will return, and a new event called “Fried” will showcase some of the fried chicken John Besh taste-tested for us (Hill Country Chicken, Peels, Pies-N-Thighs), plus more from Blue Ribbon, Red Rooster, Seersucker, and Michelle Bernstein’s Miami joint. Michy’s. Jacques Pepin will be honored in the festival’s first tribute dinner; Adam Richman will lead a tour of Brooklyn; Ferran Adrià will be the big-deal Times Talk; and there’s way, way more. Check out the full lineup of events to see what else is up.

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Earlier today, the Post had EMM Group’s seafood restaurant, Catch, opening “by the end of the summer.” Now UrbanDaddy reports that STK, the steakhouse above another one of EMM’s meatpacking properties, Tenjune, is getting a 200-seat rooftop deck on Friday. [UrbanDaddy]

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Filed Under: openings, catch, emm group, meatpacking district, stk, the great outdoors

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Eater has a clip of last night’s episode of Treme — Eric Ripert makes another appearance, but the best part is the excessive fawning over the fictional Momofuku restaurant Lucky Peach (“I work in the best restaurant in New York City,” crows one of David Chang’s chefs, “I am at the forefront of a new age of dining — the new paradigm”) followed by a cameo in which Chang half quips, “I’m not fucking happy — who’s happy? I don’t even know what that is.” And speaking of irascible chefs on HBO, tonight is the premiere of A Matter of Taste, the Paul Liebrandt documentary we showed you a clip from earlier. Doing press for the movie, Liebrandt tells Eatocracy that the chef’s life is “a 24 hour a day blessing and curse,” and tells Eater that HBO predicts 5 million people will see the flick. Meanwhile, the film’s director Sally Rowe talks about what changed during the ten years it took to make: For one thing, “The first five years it took [Liebrandt] awhile to warm up, but after that he was, like, ‘Oh yeah, that’s my shadow.’” And also: “When I started the film, the whole food business wasn’t happening.”

Paul Liebrandt: Portrait of the chef as a young artist [Eatocracy/CNN]
Paul Liebrandt on A Matter of Taste, His Chihuahua Spencer, and How Everyone Is a Critic [Eater]
A Matter of Taste’s Sally Rowe Reflects on the Distinctive Flavors of Paul Liebrandt [Fork in the Road/VV]

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Filed Under: tv land, a matter of taste, david chang, eric ripert, hbo, lucky peach, paul liebrandt, treme

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“I go to this party on Sundays at Sway, it’s like a Smiths night thing, and it’s usually like a lot of foreigners that come up to me there. So it depends on where you’re going. I go eat at Raoul’s all the time, nobody says anything, or Omen, nobody says anything. At Veselka, sometimes kids come up to me. I think it’s more where the tourists are, maybe?” —Chloë Sevigny on where she does and doesn’t get bothered at dinner. [NYDN]

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According to the Post, the Yankees and Hard Rock Café are expanding their Yankees Stadium restaurant concept, NYY Steak (go ahead and click on that link for the most obnoxious restaurant webpage music ever), and the first outpost will probably be in midtown. But will the “Joe DiMaggio Boudoir Photo” be on the walls? [NYP]

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Just last week we were assured that the new wave of Hooters imitators is keeping it classy, and that’s just the case on Long Island, where young Canz-a-City Roadhouse has set up a couple of miles away from the Hooters in East Meadow. All Canz wants to do is poach offer better treatment to those poor Hooters waitresses, and yet Hooters is allegedly doing déclassé stuff like sending its girls into Canz to lure away customers. Hooters, don’t embarrass yourself! Can’t you leave Canz’s customers to watch the Lingerie Football League in peace? Don’t you know you’re part of the old guard of tacky testosterzones, and places like Canz are here to restore some dignity to the breastaurant world? The Westbury location had a bikini party on Sunday — just like Lavo!

Breast-aurant Battle [NYP]

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